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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.